Prepare the
Walls
• Make sure that
bare walls are sound, clean and dry. Fill all holes and cracks
using Albany Filler, smoothing down the surface when it is
set. Seal porous surfaces either with diluted Albany Wallcovering
Adhesive or with a wall size, following instructions given
on the packet, and allow to dry.
Lining paper
Why use lining
papers?
• Most manufacturers
will recommend the use of a lining paper for a really professional
job (normally 1000 gms).
• If your walls
have previously been gloss-painted or covered with any oil-based
paint or sealer it is a good idea to apply a lining paper
to give a more absorbent surface for you wallcoverings to
adhere to.
• In addition,
a good quality lining paper (there is a wide choice in the
Albany range) should always be used with heavy wallcoverings
or special finishes such as grasscloth, cork, hessian, handprints
or flocks. Specific instructions for these will be given on
the roll.
• Walls that
are in poor condition, where for example the plaster needs
strengthening, will benefit from the use of ‘Fibre reinforced’
lining paper. Hang this with the fibre side to the wall using
Albany Ready Mixed Wallcovering Adhesive, light grade.
How to hang
lining paper
A lining paper
can be hung vertically since the width is almost certain to
be slightly different from your wallcoverings and it is unlikely
that the joints of the two would coincide.
However, to be
absolutely sure - or if you prefer - you can always hang the
lining horizontally (see fig.1) following the steps below:
1.
Cut the lining paper into strips which measure the length
of the wall plus about 25mm (1") round the corner to
the next wall.
2.
Use a long spirit level and mark a horizontal line along the
wall about 1" below the first length.
3. Paste the
first length and concertina fold it (see fig. 2)
4.
Working from one corner, gradually open up the folds and smooth
the paper down, eliminating air and creases as you go until
the other corner is reached, making sure the paper is hung
parallel to the pencil line.
5. Make sure
all edges are fixed down firmly, applying a little more paste
to them if necessary.
6. Successive
lengths should be butt jointed (leaving just the slightest
gap between the edges), working from ceiling to skirting.
7. Allow lining
to dry thoroughly before hanging your wallcovering.
Cutting your
wallpaper
Carefully
measure the length required (normally the height of the wall)
and cut from the roll, allowing an extra 50mm (2") or
so at top and bottom for final trimming (see fig. 3). To start
with, only cut one length at a time.
Ensure the pattern
is the right way up and never assume that the outside end
of the roll is the top - it is not always so! Mark the back
of the paper with a 'T' at the top, this avoids confusion
later on.
Consider
where you will start hanging. For boldly patterned wallpapers
choose a focal point such as a chimney breast or the dominant
wall and plan to hang from the centre (see fig. 4). If you
have a plainer design start in a corner, usually behind the
door (see fig. 7).
With
a bold design, always cut the first length so that when it
is hung and finally trimmed top and bottom there will be a
complete motif at the top of the wall (see fig. 5)
Before
cutting the next lengths ensure that the pattern matches up
with previous ones. Remember that you will be using more wallcoverings
if the design is large or has a big repeat. Always keep offcuts
- they may come in useful for small areas, such as above doors
or around windows.
Pasting
wallpaper
Always use the
paste recommended on the roll label or leaflet. If this is
not specific, Albany All Purpose Wallpaper Adhesive is suitable
for many wallcoverings and contains a fungicide that’s necessary
for vinyls and washable papers. Follow the paste manufacturer’s
instructions carefully, especially when mixing, to ensure
the correct consistency.
When applying
paste it is important to avoid getting it on the surface of
the paper. Any paste on the front should be carefully removed
with a damp sponge.
When
properly mixed and with the paper face down on the table,
start from the top and brush the paste down the length and
out towards the edges, herringbone fashion, so that it evenly
covers the surface (see fig. 6) Don't pull the brush back
across the edge of the paper as it will leave paste on the
front of the paper.
Fold
the pasted length inwards, bottom to middle and top to middle.
To ensure the edges do not curl back and dry out, the folded
length can be loosely rolled to hold them together during
the soaking period. For very long lengths, fold like a concertina
(see fig. 2)
Once pasted all
wallcoverings need to 'soak' for a period of time before hanging.
This allows the moisture to be absorbed and the paper to fully
expand (see about blisters). Always read the manufacturers
instructions on the label.
Starting Off
Straight
Few walls are
truly square or perfectly vertical. To overcome this, so avoiding
your pattern going askew, always mark a vertical pencil line
against a plumb line or long spirit level (you can make your
own plumb line with a weight attached to a thin string). Allow
the plumb to swing freely until it is at rest before putting
your pencil mark down the wall behind the string.
Hanging
You
normally start hanging in the least visible corner, often
behind a door. The plumb line should be about 25mm (1")
less than the width of the wallcovering away from the starting
point (see fig. 7).
Don’t
hang on the line, but just leave it showing by about 5mm (1/4")
and hang parallel with it. Next, smooth down and brush back
the length away from the line and into the corner going round
the corner by about 25mm.
1. Once the paper has soaked as per instructions check which
is the top of the wallcovering (having marked it on the back
if need be, before pasting), and carry it to the wall (see
fig. 8). The first length is normally hung in a corner (see
fig. 7) and subsequent lengths are hung working away from
the last.
2.
Holding the top of the length, carefully open the top fold
and lightly stick the top half of the length to the wall.
3. Allow about
50mm (2") at the top of the wall for trimming off and
slide the wallcovering exactly into position.
4. Smooth down the middle with a paperhanger’s brush, ensuring
a good butt joint and pattern match, then work out towards
the edges, removing air bubbles (see fig. 9).
5. Open the bottom fold and continue to smooth the paper down
to the skirting (see fig. 10).
6. Carefully run the back of the scissors along the angle
of the ceiling and the wall at the top, and the skirting at
the bottom, to make an impression where the wallcovering has
to be cut off (see fig. 11). Gently pull the length away,
trim off the excess with scissors and brush back into place.
7.
Carefully wipe surplus paste from the surface of the paper
and from the skirting and ceiling with a damp sponge to avoid
marking when it dries. Wash sponge frequently.
About
Blisters
If blisters appear
as the wallcovering lengths start to dry out, it usually means
there are air pockets underneath. Ease the paper away and
brush it down again, expelling the air as you do so. If they
persist, it could mean that the wallcovering has not had time
to absorb sufficient moisture from the paste - indicating
that the lengths need to be left longer after pasting so that
they become "limp" before hanging.
The reason is
that the fibres, after wetting with paste, start to expand.
If the wallcovering is put onto the wall before this has finished,
the fibres continue to expand, causing blisters to form. Sometimes
these flatten out after the wallcovering has dried out - but
not always.
Using a wooden
or rubber roller to "iron out" a blister is rarely
satisfactory. Rollers are mostly used on speciality wallcoverings
to press down particularly stubborn joints, and in these cases,
a piece of paper should be sandwiched between the roller and
the wallcovering so there is no direct contact and friction.
Other causes
of blisters are:
• Too thin a
paste, giving lack of adhesion in places and/or lack of penetration
into the wallcovering.
• Inadequate
pasting, allowing areas of wallcovering to be missed and left
dry.
• Hanging onto
a hard, impervious wall which provides no key for the paste.
This means the paste has to dry through the front of the wallcovering,
not necessarily drying evenly.
• Paste too thick
and overloading the wallcovering with paste, resulting not
only in blistering but also creasing, stretching and flattening
of the emboss.
Hanging Around
Corners
Never wrap a
full width wallcovering round an inside corner. Always do
it in two pieces.
First measure the distance from the edge of the last piece
you hung to the corner. Do this at several points between
the ceiling and skirting to find the maximum distance. (see
fig. 12).
Cut a length of wallcovering so that it is about 25mm (1")
wider than this measurement, paste it and hang with the extra
25mm overlapping round the corner on to the next wall (see
fig. 13).
Where
corners are not accurately plastered, you must be more generous
with the overlap. Take the remainder of the length and paste
it. Measure it and mark a vertical guide line on the next
wall, a little more than its width out from the corner.
Now take this second length and hang it alongside the vertical
line and perfectly parallel to it (see fig. 14)...
...brushing back into the corner and overlapping the 25mm
which has already been carried round (see fig. 15).
Match
the pattern as well as you can, although a slight mismatch
in the corner is normally not too obvious.
Outside corners
Follow the same technique, although you should allow a wrap-round
of at least 50mm (2").
Overlapping
thicker wallcoverings like blown vinyl can be difficult
to stick down. In this case, slice through the two thicknesses
after overlapping and remove the surplus pieces from underneath,
so giving you a perfect butt joint. When slicing through,
use a good straightedge and a very sharp knife, cutting at
a low angle - and take great care.
Ordinary flat
vinyls or wallcoverings with a similar shiny surface will
need the use of a special adhesive (e.g. Albany Border &
Overlap Adhesive).
Electricity
Be very careful
when applying wallcoverings over, under or around electrical
switches, sockets and similar items. We recommend turning
off the supply at the mains.
Smooth the wallcovering down very gently over the fitting
and then, for square shapes, pierce the paper and make diagonal
cuts from the centre to about 25mm (1") beyond each corner
(see fig. 16).
Press the wallcovering firmly around the edge of the fitting,
lightly mark the outline and trim away the surplus (see fig.
17).
For circular switches, make a series of cuts producing a star
shape. Press down around the outline, mark and trim in the
same way (see fig. 18).
Some
decorators prefer to slightly unscrew the fitting so that
the wallcovering can be tucked just behind its edges. In
such cases, the power must be switched off to avoid electric
shock. Particular care is needed with ready pasted wallcoverings
because they usually carry a lot of water. Similarly, take
care with metallic foil type wallcoverings, which could act
as a conductor.
Ceilings
If you are preparing
a ceiling, this should be done before the walls. Ideally,
start at a window wall and paper across the room, moving away
from the window with subsequent lengths. However, there may
be times when you will prefer to use the shortest distance
across the ceiling rather than handle very long lengths.
1. Mark a guideline on the ceiling, parallel with one wall
and about 13mm (1/2") less than the paper width out from
it. The line should also be at a 90º angle to the adjacent
wall (see fig. 19).
2.
Paste the first length and fold, concertina style, leaving
to soak until supple.
3. Carry it over
your arm to the starting point on the ceiling and then support
it on a hand-held baton (a taped-up, partly used roll of lining
paper or short length of broom handle will do).
4. Open the first fold, slide the paper into position against
the guideline and start to smooth it down onto the ceiling
(see fig. 20).
5. Continue unfolding and brush into position, finally trimming
at each end, leaving about 13mm (1/2") overlapping the
wall at the ends and along the length (see fig. 21).
6.
Continue with successive lengths, butt joining to the previous
one until the ceiling is covered.
Electrical
fittings. Some decorators prefer to dismantle these to
make papering easier. If so, the
power must be switched off at the mains and
any surplus pasted paper trimmed away to avoid any being left
under the reassembled fitting. Alternatively, you can cut
around ceiling fittings as described earlier.
Textured (embossed)
white ceiling papers usually require painting after application.
If so, Albany vinyl matt, silk or soft sheen emulsion is ideal.
White blown
vinyls can sometimes cause a chemical reaction when painted
with silk emulsion. If you would like a silk finish, give
the blown vinyl an undercoat of matt emulsion first.
Source:
http://www.wallpaperdirect.co.uk
- Buy wallpapers and wallcoverings at Wallpaperdirect
